Artful Shopping

Artful Shopping

There is a genuine joy to shopping with a mind for something above the ordinary, something one-of-a-kind and artfully unique. From art pottery to imported pashmina, the galleries, crafts boutiques and specialty shops in Southern Vermont’s small towns and historic villages are where you can discover beautiful things that feed your soul. Just as the Localvore and Slow Food movements took on the fast food chains, there is a cure for the big-box-shopping mentality and you are sure to find it in Southern Vermont.

If you had to pick a special place in Southern Vermont to designate as the official “art town” it would have to be Putney (population, 2,500) at exit 4 off Interstate 91. There must be something in the water here or in the mountain air, maybe, which boosts both creative and independent thinking simultaneously. The town’s annual Putney Craft open studio tour is a cultural phenom, a living legacy to the arts in Southern Vermont. It has been going on now for 33 years and hundreds of people schedule their vacations around it. It is not just the art, or meeting the artists that makes the self-guided tour so successful, it is the chance to get close to the creative process and buy work directly from the artist who made it.

From Putney you can go the back way through Saxton’s River (population, a scant 500) to Grafton, a small, picture perfect village centered at the intersections

of scenic Routes 35 and 121, and a morning jaunt is nowhere near enough time to see everything. In Saxton’s River, you can stay and dine at the Saxton’s River Inn and enjoy an evening of entertainment at Main Street Arts.

Inspired Downtowns
In the downtown area of Bellows Falls on a side window of the Exner Block Gallery just off the main drag, four words are perfectly lettered directly on the plate glass: Art makes a difference. Bellows Falls is a manufacturing town transformed into a place where everyone more or less expects everyone else to be interested in literature, arts and culture. The residents want more galleries, they want good theatre, they want the arts lifestyle because they consider all this attractive and even more importantly, they know it is essential to a good quality of life.

From Bellows Falls, cross the bridges over the Connecticut River which is also the state line and head south a few miles on Route 12 to historic Walpole, New Hampshire. This is the place that renowned novelist James Michener described as the “quintessential New England village.” For that reason alone it is worth the
detour, but if you need another excuse to go there,  then go to see the Walpole Artisans Cooperative, located in the village center. It represents regional artists whose works include paintings, sculpture in various mediums, children’s furniture, pottery, floral designs, jewelry and unique books. Whatever you may buy here, you always get a story with it and a fond memory of a day well spent in a small village that is only slightly off the beaten path.

From Walpole head back to Vermont and rte. 103 to Chester. Pick up a yummy bowl of soup at  Smokin’ Bowls; head to the Vermont Country Store for a step back in time. The village of Chester has strong Victorian flavor and here you can buy a teddy bear or a text book, dine by candlelight in a lavishly appointed inn, or set yourself at the counter in either of two diners. It’s also the home to several galleries, interesting shops and a new contemporary arts center.

There’s culture and then there’s counter culture and just about anywhere in downtown Brattleboro its possible to encounter each. Brattleboro is extremely proud to have the most popular Gallery Walk that some call a walking party. It takes place on the first Friday of every month. There are free maps and guides to the locations, sometimes as many as 40 or 50 venues in all.

Head west on Route 9 from Brattleboro to Wilmington with plans to continue on to Bennington. It is a scenic ride along the Molly Stark Scenic Byway and the ideal daylong excursion. Wilmington suffered major damage in Tropical Storm Irene but the village is coming back strong.

Just twenty miles west on Route 9 brings you directly into the heart of Bennington, a town steeped in tradition and old-fashioned Yankee heritage. In fact, there are three National Register Historic Districts, one in each of its village centers: Old Bennington, Downtown Bennington and North Bennington. Benningtonites take their arts and cultural heritage seriously. The Bennington Museum describes itself as “the trusted caretaker” of the largest collection of Grandma Moses art and memorabilia available to the public.

Creative Country Roads
Southern Vermont’s Route 30 heading north out of Brattleboro takes you through historic Newfane one of the most photographed town greens in Vermont.
Continuing on route 30 to Jamaica, also hard hit by Irene, you’ll find Hank and Toby’s Hot Glass Works; the Old Corker’s Emporium with Skip Woodruff’s lodge-style rustic furniture; and the Elaine Beckwith Gallery fine art gallery. Enjoy a superb eclectic American and Swiss fare for lunch or dinner at Asta’s Swiss Restaurant and B&B.

Stay on Route 30 towards Manchester, home of the Southern Vermont Arts Center. It can be tempting to only go outlet-shopping but there is a vibrant arts community blended into the outlet center. Go straight to the Southern Vermont Arts Center. For good reason, they call themselves “Vermont’s premier home for the arts.” It is an all-inclusive nonprofit venue located on a beautiful 407-acre estate (on the National Register of Historical Places) with a permanent collection, sculpture garden, exhibits and shows, events, art auctions, performances, traveling “boutiques,” dinners, tea parties, gala balls curator’s talks, excursions, and classes.
Just below the source of the West River, nestled in a valley surrounded by the Green Mountains, you will discover the prettiest village—Weston.

The entire village is listed on the National Register of Historic Places. Here you’ll find the most famous country store in Vermont, The Vermont Country Store, and shops featuring Christmas collectibles, home furnishings and pies and pastries. There is a fine art gallery, a general store, cheese emporium and all of the village businesses are within a short walk of each other and if you need a break, local restaurants are ready to serve you.
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In Putney, not to miss: Offerings shop for their silver jewelry; the Zeiter family’s famous Putney Inn for their baked five onion and apple soup to warm up on a chilly afternoon, the Front Porch for their cozy style and Sunday Brunch, Florali for its fabulous unique clothing and accessories. You may also find a puppet performance at Sandglass Theatre or a movie or musical event at Next Stage.

In Grafton: not to miss — My Minds Design Gallery where you will find the fine craftsmanship of Jason Ballard or catch him working on one of his custom projects. Stop into Grafton Village Cheese for their samplings and tastings or for more sustenance go next door to Macks sandwich shop. Enjoy the Grafton Inn for their Sunday Supper Pot Au Feu and …and Grafton Ponds for an afternoon of cross-
country skiing. Visit other local galleries and the Nature and Mineral museums open seasonally.

In Bellows Falls, not to miss – Halladay’s for their fabulous herb and spice dip mixes; Village Square Booksellers for their vast selection of local writers; The Exner Block for galleries and revitalization projects, the Third Friday Art Walk and Great River Arts for art classes and Sherwin Art Glass studio where you might catch Chris Sherwin demonstrating his craft.

In Walpole, also not to miss — L.A. Burdick’s for an elegant lunch and to-die-for hot chocolate; Ruggles & Hunt for you name it, they’ve got it; take a stroll around the 1750s town green one street over from the shops.

In Brattleboro, not to miss — catch a movie  at the Latchis Theater, one of the only art deco theaters remaining in Vermont. Across the street is the Brattleboro Museum & Art Center housed in an historic train station; Candle in the Night for their extraordinary selection of oriental rugs and furniture; Vermont Artisan Designs for their immense variety of craft items; Altiplano for their selection of clothing, gifts, jewelry and accessories, Renaissance Fine Jewelry and Renaissance Fine Antiques shop. Brattleboro also boasts a variety of restaurants including The Marina on the waterfront and Thai Bamboo in town.
In Wilmigton don’t miss a stop at Bartleby’s Books that has reopened after heavy water damage, and just down the street, the Quaigh Gallery that offers great pottery and artwork from Britain and New England and Scottish woolens. Upstairs is the temporary gallery for Ann Coleman who’s building went with Irene.

In Bennington, not to miss – Bennington Potters for their daily “open studio” tour and Hawkins House for their contemporary crafts. And if you’re ready to do a room or house makeover, the Bennington House of Tile has a 17,000 square foot warehouse. It’s is a good chance they’ll have almost anything you’ll need.
Not to miss: Stop in at the Newfane Creamery for soups and sandwiches, but before you head off north, hit the Newfane Country Store that has everything from penny candy to hand-crafted quilts. North of Newfane is Townshend—where scenes from the 1987 hit Funny Farm starring Chevy Chase was filmed. One interesting place to browse is the Taft Hill Collection in the Harmonyville neighborhood. The galleries here display works by area artists as well as the glass artistry of Robert duGrenier of Crest Studio.

In Manchester, not to miss – Epoch Gallery, a cooperative craft gallery, featuring 18 of Vermont’s finest artisans, Tilting at Windmills, one of New England’s largest fine art galleries and Gander Gallery that showcases the work of established and emerging artists from Vermont and elsewhere.

In Weston, visit the Museums of Weston in the Millyard, the Old Mill and the Crafts Building. Each is filled with authentic and rare examples of the everyday items used by 18th and 19th century Weston families. There are two magnificent churches, that serve the community year round, and the Church on the Hill with Sunday morning services and afternoon concerts during the summer. The Weston Playhouse Theatre Company, Vermont’s oldest professional theatre company, presents a summer season of Broadway’s favorite plays and musicals. The Opera Theatre of Weston presents professional opera to kids and families during the winter holiday season at the Weston Playhouse.

VISITOR INFORMATION:

Bellows Falls
Great Falls Regional Chamber of Commerce
http://www.gfrcc.org
802 463-4280

Bennington
Downtown Welcome Center
http://www.betterbennington.com
802 442-5758

Bennington Chamber of Commerce
Toll free 800 229-0252
802 447-3311
http://www.bennington.com

Brattleboro
Chamber of Commerce
http://www.brattleborochamber.org
802 254-4565
Toll free 877 254-4565

Manchester
Manchester and the Mountains Chamber of Commerce
http://www.manchestervermont.net
Toll free 800) 362-4144

Southern Vermont Arts Center
http://www.svac.org
802 362-1405

Wilmington
Mount Snow Chamber of Commerce
http://www.visitvermont.com

Wilmington Village Center
802 464-8092
Toll free 877 887-6884

State of Vermont
http://www.travel-vermont.com
Guilford Welcome Center (open24/7)
802 258-4503
Toll free 1-800-VERMONT

Vermont Arts Council
802 828-3291
http://www.vermontartsdirectory.org